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GETTING AROUND |
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New Zealand is a relatively small country and getting around is easy,
with some form of transport going to most destinations.
Although it is possible to fly to many of the major destinations in New
Zealand, you need to consider whether the time you save outweighs the
substantial expense involved. With time to spare you will appreciate the
scenery better by travelling more slowly and at ground level. The rail
service is fairly limited and is also quite expensive, while the
Interislander ferries connecting the North and South islands are subject
to stiff competition and thus quite good value. The cheapest and easiest
way to get around is by bus or shuttle bus but this is also the most
time-consuming mode of travel. With careful planning, you can reduce
your costs by booking in advance and taking advantage of the many
special offers and reduced fares .
For getting off the beaten track, you'll need a car. Rental cars are
fine for short periods, but if you are staying in the country for more
than a month, it's more economical to buy a car, provided you're not
averse to some haggling and paperwork. New Zealand is renowned for its
green countryside and some travellers prefer to cycle their way around -
a fine way of seeing the country, so long as you're fit and in no great
hurry.
However, you'll still need to take to the air or the water (or your feet)
to reach the offshore islands and the more remote parts of the country
that remain stubbornly impenetrable by road, such as Fiordland.
Domestic flights
Domestic flights are generally expensive , but may well be worth it if
you have limited time in the country - especially if you can bag a
standby bargain or tag one on to your international flight for a little
extra. The stranglehold of the major carriers, Air New Zealand and
Ansett Australia, results in the absurd situation whereby it is
sometimes cheaper to fly from New Zealand to Australia than to fly
between the North and South islands. There are, however, a number of
small companies (most wholly or partly owned by ANZ and Ansett) flying
specific routes that offer good deals from time to time; check the
latest with local visitor centres.
Air New Zealand and Ansett offer a broad range of fares for domestic
flights, from the usual business and economy classes to cheaper, limited-availability
advance-purchase tickets that are only bookable in New Zealand . A full-fare
economy-class flight from Auckland to Christchurch is currently about
$250-360. Two of the most useful short hops are the very scenic Southern
Air flights from Invercargill to Stewart Island ($80-120) and the cheap
trip over Cook Straight from either the North or South islands for about
the same cost as a ferry ticket but taking only half an hour.
Flights can be booked through travel agents, some visitor centres or
direct with an airline; special offers are widely promoted at airports
or in visitor centres around the country.
Fare concessions
Backpacker discounts of thirty to fifty percent are available on many
forms of transport to holders of YHA or VIP cards . Fare concessions are
also available to children on provision of proof of age, as are seniors
' discounts - with the exception of over-60s airfares, which are only
available to New Zealand residents.
FLIGHTS
Advance-purchase fares (14-21 days) give 30-65 percent discount on all
Air New Zealand, Ansett and Mount Cook flights, booked in NZ.
Standby fares (50 percent off) are available on some Air New Zealand and
Ansett flights to holders of YHA and VIP cards.
FERRIES
Advance-purchase fares (7 days) give 15-50 percent discount on selected
sailings.
TRAINS
Advance-purhase fares (economy, saver and super saver), offering
discounts of 25-50 percent, are available in limited numbers; day-excursion
fares are discounted by 30 percent.
No Frills tickets are available in limited numbers, offering significant
reductions (around 50 percent) for travelling in older, non-air-conditioned
carriages; call 0800/802 802 for details.
A discount of 30 percent is available to YHA and VIP card holders.
Over 60s are entitled to a 30 percent reduction on all services.
Blind and other disabled travellers are entitled to a 50 percent
discount if they present authorization (from the DPA ).
BUSES
YHA and VIP cardholders get 30 percent off fares with all three of the
major companies (InterCity, Newmans and Mount Cook); and 5 percent off
with Kiwi Experience.
Advance-purchase fares offer 30 percent discount for tickets bought 5
days ahead of travel, and there are a limited number of 50 percent
discounts available on a first-come, first-served basis.
Ferries
The ferries you're most likely to use are those plying the Cook Strait
between the North and South islands, but there are also ferries to
Stewart Island from the South Island and from Auckland across the
Hauraki Gulf and over to Coromandel. Information about these short ferry
trips is included in our accounts on Invercargill and Auckland .
The Interislander fleet that shuttles between Wellington on the North
Island and Picton on the South Island consists of three ferries and the
quicker wave-piercing catamaran called the Lynx (nicknamed the Vomit
Comet, for all-too-obvious reasons). These days they have stiff
competition from the smooth ride of the even faster catamaran, Topcat ,
which along with other planned carriers means the prices stay down. All
the ferries run seven days a week year-round, take around three hours,
are very reliable and surprisingly comfortable in most conditions. The
standard fare is around $46 one-way, though this can be reduced by as
much as half if you book in advance or take a night or early morning
crossing; add $10 each way for a bike, $140 for a car. The Lynx operates
between Wellington and Picton from December to April, but is cancelled
if the swell is greater than half a metre (the other ferries keep
running). Topcat 's wave-piercing technology makes it less susceptible
to bad weather and it runs most of the time.
Reservations can be made for both Interislander services at travel
agents or by phone or fax (tel 0800/802 802, fax 0800/101 525); you'll
generally get the best deal by booking direct. Reservations for the
Topcat are on tel 0800/486 7228.
New Zealand travel passes
Travel passes generally offer unlimited travel within a specified period.
You'll probably get your money's worth if you're determined to see a lot
in a limited amount of time, but if you prefer a more leisurely pace,
think carefully before you buy. Most can be bought either before you
leave or after you arrive, but air passes are usually restricted to non-residents
of New Zealand.
FLIGHTS
Air New Zealand and Ansett air passes both work out at around $150 per
flight; good value if you are flying between the main islands but
otherwise not a great saving; Air New Zealand's pass is also valid on
Mount Cook Airline services. For both passes, the minimum purchase is 3
coupons ($450) and the maximum is 8 ($1140), each redeemable for one
flight. You can get a refund on any leftover coupons, so long as you
apply before you leave the country.
BUSES
InterCity offer fixed-route passes , with seasonal variations in pricing,
such as the Coromandel Loop Pass (Thames to Coromandel, Whitianga and
back; all year $37); Pacific Coast Traveller (around the east coast to
Gisborne and Napier via Rotorua; May-Sept $142, Sept-May $149); North
Island Value Pass (any route between Auckland and Wellington; May-Sept
$95, Sept-May $99); and the Forests, islands and geysers (which combines
bits of the above for a whole island experience; May-Sept $255, Sept-May
$260). Prices for their South Island passes are also seasonal: options
include the West Coast Passport (Nelson to Queenstown; May-Sept $109,
Sept-May $125); the East Coast Explorer (Te Anau to Picton, via Dunedin
and Christchurch; $119/$132); and the Milford Bound (Christchurch to
Milford, via Mount Cook and Queenstown; $119/$132); a combination of the
best bits of these is available as a Pathfinder ($340/$370). A combined
North and South islands pass will cost $340-549.
Of the other passes available, Newmans stopover passes are good value.
The deal is for either of the two islands - $95 for a comprehensive look
around the North or $129 for a more limited visit to the South. You
simply break your journey where you choose and book buses for the next
stage, usually $3 per sector. Although it's an independent way of
getting about without a car, you'll find yourself restricted by well-defined
routes.
COMBINED TRAVEL PASSES
Tranz Rail's range of travel passes combine trains, buses and planes.
The 3 in 1 pass is valid for travel on trains and InterCity buses and
for one Interislander ferry crossing (5 days' travel over 10 days, £144;
22 days in 8 weeks, £284). The 4 in 1 version offers all the above plus
one domestic flight on Ansett or Air New Zealand (5 travel days £192, 8
days £241).
Tranz Rail Scenic Throughfares are a range of fixed-itinerary tickets
that connect the North and South islands, combining trains with the
Interislander ferries and selected bus services, for example Wellington
to Christchurch ($85), Wellington to Waitomo ($75), Auckland to Waitomo
($38), or Christchurch to Auckland ($165).
Trains
Tranz Rail trains are a fast method of travel to a limited number of
destinations in New Zealand, despite the fact that they seem to have
been kept largely as a tourist attraction , with the exception of the
commuter services that run into Wellington from the Hutt Valley and
Palmerston North.
Most carriages are air-conditioned, with on-board phones and huge
picture windows; airline-style meals (including vegetarian options) are
served at your seat, and there's also a buffet car. Passengers check in
on the platform before boarding (a ticket guarantees a seat) and bags
are carried in a luggage van. As a contrast to the trains, stations tend
to be in a depressingly run-down state.
These days services are limited. On the North Island, trains run from
Auckland to Wellington; from Hamilton to Tauranga and Rotorua; from
Palmerston North to Gisborne; from Napier to Palmerston North and on to
Wellington; and from Masterton to Wellington. On the South Island, the
main service operates between Picton and Invercargill along the east
coast only. From Christchurch, a branch line runs to Greymouth on the
west coast, while further south at Dunedin another service cuts inland
to Middlemarch. These last two services are scenic trips run almost
entirely for the benefit of tourists and are priced accordingly.
Tranz Rail have a multi-tier fare structure, with advance-purchase and
concessionary fares available only within New Zealand . The minimum fare
is $14, no matter how short your journey, and a standard, non-discounted
ticket from Auckland to Wellington is $122; Picton to Christchurch will
set you back $73.
Tranz Rail also offers a range of passes for unlimited travel for a
certain number of days within a specified period and fixed-itinerary
tickets . For further information and advance bookings , call Tranz Rail
on tel 0800/802 802 or fax on 0800/101 525, www.tranzrail.co.nz.
Buses
Buses and shuttle buses (minibuses) are, because of stiff competition,
the cheapest form of public transport and will get you to most places.
In general, they are reliable and reasonably comfortable: the larger
buses are usually air-conditioned; some have toilets and show feature
films and New Zealand promotional material to while away longer journeys.
The main bus companies are InterCity www.intercitycoach.co.nz (who
operate on both islands) and Newmans (with services concentrated on the
North Island); Mount Cook Landlines (who run between Auckland and
Wellington, via Rotorua, on the North Island and serve most destinations
on the South Island) are now part of the Intercity set-up. One other
competitor who offers an excellent service around the top half of the
North Island is Northliner Express (tel 09/402 7857).
One fact worth remembering is that the big bus operators charge more for
South Island journeys than for North, so you might want to try different
modes of transport in the South. Standard fares with most bus companies
from Auckland to Wellington are in the region of $94; Christchurch to
Queenstown, $118; Queenstown to Nelson, $176; Christchurch to Picton,
$46; though prices often plummet during off-peak periods and a range of
discounted fares is available . Bus bookings can be made by phone:
InterCity (Mon-Fri 7am-8pm & Sat-Sun 7am-7pm; in Auckland tel 09/357
8400, in Wellington tel 04/472 5111, in Christchurch tel 03/379 9020);
and Newmans (tel 0800/777 707), or at most visitor centres and travel
agents. Note that once you've bought your ticket or pass, you may incur
an agent's reservation fee of $3 unless you book bus seats direct.
Driving
If your budget will stretch to it, driving is the best way to go,
enabling you to get to places beyond the reach of public transport and
to set your own timetable, although it's worth being conscious of the
damage to the environment cars cause and using more eco-friendly
transport wherever possible.
In order to drive in New Zealand you need a valid licence from
Australia, Britain, Canada, Fiji, Germany, Namibia, The Netherlands,
Switzerland or South Africa; citizens of other countries need to obtain
an International Driver's Licence before they leave (available from
national motoring organizations).
Road rules are similar to those in the UK, Australia and the US, but if
you plan to do much driving, you should pick up a copy of The Road Guide
from AA offices or selected bookshops and newsagents for about $14.95.
The one variation peculiar to New Zealand is that you must give way to
all traffic crossing or coming from your right; this means that if you
are turning left and another car coming from the opposite direction
wants to turn right into the same side-road, you must let them go first.
Most importantly, drive on the left , and remember that seatbelts are
compulsory for all occupants. Always park in the same direction as that
in which you are travelling; roadside parking facing oncoming traffic is
illegal.
The speed limit for the open road is 100km/hr, reduced to 50km/hr in
built-up areas and in limited speed zones (signposted LSZ ) when road
conditions are deemed unsafe - owing to bad weather, poor visibility,
crossing pedestrians, cyclists, or excessive traffic. The fine for
speeding is currently $120; some drivers warn others of lurking police
patrols by flashing their headlights at oncoming cars. Drink driving is
a major problem in New Zealand: as part of a campaign to cut the death-toll,
random breath tests have been introduced, and offenders are dealt with
severely.
Unleaded and super unleaded petrol and diesel are available in New
Zealand. Prices hover around 97¢ a litre for unleaded, $1.02 for super
unleaded, and 75¢ for diesel, with predictably higher prices in more
out-of-the-way places.
The New Zealand Automobile Association (AA) has reciprocal rights with
motoring organizations from lots of other countries, so check with your
home service before you leave. If you don't qualify and you'll be
driving your own vehicle, consider joining the AA as an overseas visitor
($54, plus $25 joining fee, www.aa.org.nz ), valid for six months, or as
a full member ($66, plus $25 joining fee), valid for a year. Apart from
free 24-hour emergency breakdown service (tel 0800/500 222) - excluding
vehicles bogged on beaches - membership entitles you to free maps,
accommodation guides and legal assistance, discounts on some rental cars
and accommodation, plus access to insurance and pre-purchase vehicle
inspection services.
Road conditions are generally good: most roads are sealed, although a
few have a "metalled" surface composed of an aggregate of loose
chippings. Obviously, these are slower to drive along, are prone to wash-outs
and landslides after heavy rain, and demand considerably more care and
attention from the driver. Metalled roads are clearly marked on most
maps, so plan your route carefully beforehand. Some car-rental companies
prohibit the use of their cars on the worst metalled roads - typically
those along Ninety Mile Beach, Skippers Canyon and around the Coromandel
Peninsula. Always check conditions locally before setting off on these
routes.
Compared with most parts of the world, there are relatively few cars on
New Zealand's roads, but traffic can still be a problem around the major
cities and on public holidays. Other hazards include flocks of sheep and
slow, wide farm equipment on country roads, as well as monstrous logging
trucks in forested regions.
Hitching and car shares
Although many travellers enthuse about hitching in New Zealand - and it
does enjoy a reputation of relative safety - the official advice is
don't. Sadly, New Zealand has its share of unpleasant individuals and,
with an extensive network of affordable transport and tours at your
disposal, there's really little reason to take unnecessary risks . If
you're determined to do it regardless, hitch in pairs (no guarantee of
avoiding trouble but safer than going solo). Women , especially, should
trust their instincts: it's better to refuse a lift than regret it later;
there will always be another car. Always ask the driver where they are
going, rather than telling them where you're headed, and keep your gear
with you so you can make a quick get away if it becomes necessary.
Finding the best hitching spots around the country is generally a matter
of common sense, or common knowledge on the travellers' grapevine. Some
town and city hostels drop their guests at hitching spots as a matter of
course; pick a spot where you can be clearly seen and drivers can stop
safely.
A good compromise is car share , where the cost of travel is shared. You
can organize this formally through organizations such as Travelpool in
Auckland (daily 9am-8pm; tel 09/307 0001) and Travelshare in Wellington
(daily 8am-9pm; tel 04/473 5558), to whom you pay a commission for the
introduction service, before signing a contract with the driver to split
the cost of the journey; obviously the more of you there are, the
cheaper it gets. Casual car shares are also advertised on hostel
noticeboards, which saves on commission but demands more trust on both
sides.
Motorbiking
Although motorbikes are generally cheaper to buy than cars and more
economical from a fuel point of view, bear in mind that you'll also be
more exposed to the elements and be able to carry considerably less
stuff with you. Be prepared for riding on unsealed roads , which can be
a far-from-pleasant experience, and be sure you know what you're doing -
there's nothing worse than having to push a broken-down bike a few
kilometres to the nearest town. Note also that to ride a motorbike your
international licence must specify motorbikes.
A worthwhile secondhand bike will set you back approximately $1000, and
the registration procedure is the same as for cars . Motorbikes can be
rented or bought (outright or on a buy-back basis) from Graham Crosby
Motorcycles Ltd, 299 Great North Rd, Grey Lynn, Auckland (tel 09/376
2711, fax 376 5033), or through the same channels as cars .
Cycling
Cycling is an excellent way of appreciating the countryside, especially
if you're reasonably fit and keep your time on the main highways to a
minimum. Disadvantages are dealing with unsealed roads , which become
irksome if you're on them all day and wreak havoc with your tyres (fat
tyres limit the damage).
Contrary to what you might think, cycling in New Zealand's mountainous
South Island is easier than in the North Island. The South Island's
north-south alpine backbone presents virtually the only geographical
barrier, while the eastern two-thirds of the island comprise a flat
plain. By contrast, in the North Island you can barely go 10km without
encountering significant hills - and you have to contend with a great
deal more traffic, including overbearing logging trucks. If you do get
sick of pedalling, you can always hoick your bike onto a bus, shuttle or
train for around $10-12 per trip.
Most people seem to prefer using mountain bikes but since the majority
of riding is on roads, touring bikes are just as good; helmets are
required by law. If all you want to do is explore locally, some hostels
and guesthouses have pre-loved bikes you can use for a nominal sum, or
even for free. Renting bikes for more than the odd day can be an
expensive option, costing anything from $15-35 a day, depending whether
you want a bike with little more than pedals and brakes, a tourer, or a
state-of-the-art mountain bike. Specialist cycle shops also do
economical monthly rental for around $200 for a touring bike, $300 for a
full-suspension superbike.
If you plan on any long-distance cycle-touring, it's generally cheaper
to buy , though you have to factor in the cost of transporting the bike
by bus or train if you shirk the longer hauls. Hostel noticeboards are
the place to look for bargains (between $150 and $300 is a reasonable
deal), often accompanied by extras like wet-weather gear, lights, helmet
and a pump; some cycle shops will guarantee buy back at the end of your
trip for about fifty percent of the purchase price.
It is possible to bring your own bike to New Zealand by plane and if you
intend to cycle a lot this is the cheapest option. On most airlines,
assuming you prepare and package them appropriately, bikes simply count
as a piece of luggage and don't incur any extra cost so long as you
don't exceed your baggage limit. It's easy enough to find spares in
cities and larger country towns but in the more out-of-the-way places
you may have to wait some time for spares to be delivered.
Visitors with extensive cycling in mind should get in touch with
Adventure Cycles (tel 09/309 5566) or Cycle Xpress (tel 09/379 0779),
both in Auckland. If you're bringing your own bike they'll let you store
the bike box you transported your machine in, help you organize an
emergency package of spare parts and extra clothing to be forwarded at
your request, and give your bike a final once over before you set off,
all for around $20. They also operate buy-back schemes , which are good
value for anything longer than a two-month tour. |
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